Tue, 29 Sep 2009
I am introducing a new blog series where I will feature international travels for design inspiration and honeymoon ideas. I will always try to include sample itineraries, recommendations for lodging/restaurants/things to do/places to see, and of course, lots of photos! I have a deep, deep love of travel, and have been extremely lucky to have visited many corners of the world. I believe that travel is closely tied to Elisabeth Events’ mission of celebrating love and philanthropy, as it helps people to broaden their perspectives, gain an appreciation of natural beauty and different cultures, and cultivates a love for ideals greater than ourselves…
For the first in this series, I will feature a recent trip to Kenya, where I did some international development consulting for a locally owned safari company, DK Grand Safaris, ventured on a three-day safari to the Masai Mara National Reserve, and visited the gorgeous and serene island on the eastern coast called Lamu.

Photo Credits: 1 – Elisabeth Events, 2 – Fan Shen, 3 – Fan Shen
MY ITINERARY
Day 1: Depart from JFK Airport, New York
Day 2: Land in Nairobi, Kenya for transit (Lodging: Ain Guesthouse, US$50/double)
Day 3: Nairobi –> Lamu via AirKenya (Lodging: Shella Bahari Guesthouse, US$60/double)
Day 4: Lamu – beach, walk along beach to Old Town
Day 5: Lamu – Dhow sailing trip, beach
Day 6: Lamu –> Nairobi via AirKenya (Lodging: provided by client)
Day 7: Nairobi – working at client’s office
Day 8: Nairobi – Giraffe Center, The David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust (aka Elephant Orphanage)
Day 9: Nairobi – Hotel tours – The Norfolk (Fairmont), Nairobi Serena Hotel,
Day 10: Depart for Masai Mara National Reserve for safari, afternoon game drive
Day 11: Morning game drives, relaxing/swimming at lodge, afternoon game drive, dinner at lodge (Lodging: Keekorok Lodge)
Day 12: Morning game drive, hotel tour of Sarova Mara Game Lodge, depart for Nairobi
Day 13: Nairobi – shopping, dinner at client’s home (Lodging: provided by client)
Day 14: Return to New York
PART I: LAMU/SHELLA
Lamu is Kenya’s oldest living city and thankfully still lives and breathes its old world charm. As a UNESCO World Heritage Sight, it is considered the best-preserved Swahili settlement in East Africa, and has a much different feel than the rest of Kenya due to its Muslim culture. Historically a port and trading city, the food, people, architecture, and traditions reflect influences from Kenya’s neighbors to the east. The Daily Telegraph wrote, “The island’s venerable old town blends Arab and African culture with a sun-baked, siesta-time feel that gives it a wonderfully sedate charm,” and I completely agree!

View from our balcony (dreamy, right?
)
Tucked away in the Lamu Archipelago, the easiest way to access the island is by plane, followed by a boat trip across the channel. Flights from Nairobi cost approximately US$150 for a roundtrip ticket. Transportation from the airport is often included with lodging, to be sure to inquire. Once you hit land, expect to do a lot of walking since there is only one car on the entire island… and ~3,000 donkeys!

My travel buddy Megan and I on a speedboat captained by Kiru (airport in the background)
My friend Megan and I opted to stay on Shella, an adjacent island that is a 30-minute walk from Lamu “Old Town” (downtown), since our primary agenda for this trip was beach and relaxation! We stayed at the Shella Bahari Guesthouse, a sister property of Stopover Guesthouse. Since mass tourism has yet to hit Lamu, there are very few hotels in Shella and Lamu, but there are many of these small guesthouses, with 5-10 rooms, ranging from US$30-75/night for a double. These are far from luxury suites (e.g. the bathroom “door” was a curtain), but the view from the balcony was the better than any five-star resort I have ever stayed at!

That’s our balcony, overlooking the sea
[Photo credit: Megan Bordi]
Our guesthouse was located next door to Peponi Hotel (US$250-500/double), the only upscale hotel in the area (and also one of the few places that serve alcohol). It was our favorite place to grab a Tusker, Kenya’s local beer, to watch the sun set over the tranquil seas.
The beaches on Shella were amaaaazing, and at just 2-degrees below the equator, the sun was HOT. Nearly any time of the day that we went to the beach for a walk or to lay out for a bit, we were practically the only ones out… enhancing the sensation of privacy and tranquility… and making us feel like this entire island was ours. It would be such a romantic escape for a honeymoon! The only down side was that it was quite windy, so we often woke up with a dusting of the fine sand all over our bodies and belongings. Travelers should also note that Lamu is subject to extreme rainy seasons (May/June), where the beautiful turquoise waters you see below turn into a brownish/muddy color due to the heavy rains.

Not a soul in sight…
My absolute favorite part of the stay in Lamu was our half-day dhow trip. Dhows are traditional Arabic sailboats, and a common form of transportation in Lamu. It’s not just for tourists! Our day began when our guide, Hassan, picked us up at the guesthouse. We sailed across the channel for an up-close view of the mangroves, a tour of the private mansions on Manda Island, beach and snorkeling around Manda, and a delicious “home cooked” meal of grilled fish/calamari, tomato/coconut stew, and fresh fruits, all prepared by Hassan. Before returning home, we stopped by a “floating island” bar for a refreshing drink. Just thinking about this day makes me want to go back immediately! If you choose to go on a dhow trip, be sure to shop around, as you will be approached (almost incessantly…) by salesmen and captains offering to take you out. We paid 2,500 Kenyan shillings total for this four-hour trip, which was about US$15 each!! A complete steal and must do if you ever find yourself in Lamu.

We’re on a boat!

Dhow in the distance, in front of Manda Island [Photo credit: Megan Bordi]
Other highlights included walking along the pathway connecting Shella to Lamu Old Town… shopping around the narrow streets of Old Town (think Aladdin)… dining at the infamous home of Ali Samosa. A skilled salesman, definitely every local and nearly every visitor will know (and probably meet) Ali Samosa. He walks around and greets new visitors personally, and invites you to his home for a home cooked meal prepared by his wife. The food was abundant and delicious (particularly the curries and of course, samosas), but a bit overpriced… and the setting (literally inside Ali’s home) left us feeling a bit awkward. Best to go with a group of at least four people to make it more of an adventure!
I’ll leave you with a little taste of home that we encountered on one of our beach walks… Kenyas LOVE Obama! Can you spot our president in this photo?

Additional Resources:
Stay tuned for Kenya Part II (Nairobi) and Part III (Safari in Masai Mara)!